The W Trek is the most popular multi-day hike in Patagonia — named for the W-shape of its route through the heart of Torres del Paine National Park. It traverses across three spectacular arms: the iconic Towers, the French Valley, and Glacier Grey. We did it self-guided, which we highly recommend — the trail is well-marked and well-trodden, and it's significantly cheaper than guided options.
Direction: East to West vs West to East
East → West (Torre Central → Glacier Grey)
Tackle the hardest section (Mirador Las Torres) early when legs are fresh. The full 5-day experience builds beautifully from towers to glacier.
West → East (Glacier Grey → Torre Central)
Ends with a classic sunrise view over the Towers on the final day. Choose based on accommodation availability and personal preference.
Getting There
Take a bus from Puerto Natales to Torres del Paine NP (Bus Sur or Turismo Zaahj — check current schedules). Purchase park entrance tickets in advance. All bus stops within the park allow overnight parking if driving yourself.
Accommodation on the W Trek
Wilderness camping is not permitted. All accommodation is managed by Vertice Patagonia and Las Torres Patagonia. Options at each refugio:
🛏 Bunk Dorms
Basic bunk beds in the refugio. Most affordable indoor option.
🏠 Private Cabins
Private rooms in the refugio for those wanting more comfort.
⛺ Equipped Tents
Tents already set up at the campsite — bring your own sleeping bag.
🎒 Own Tent
Pitch your own tent at managed campsites. Requires carrying all gear.
Food on the W Trek
🍳 Half Board
Breakfast + dinner included. Most popular option.
🥗 Full Board
Breakfast, packed lunch + dinner. Best for long days.
🎒 Fully Independent
Carry all your own food for the duration. Pack light meals.
Vegetarian options available at all refugios. You can mix-and-match meal plans across days — opt for full board on long hiking days, independent on shorter ones. Refugio kitchens also sell snacks and drinks.
W Trek Itinerary — East to West (5 Days)
A slow start — a good way to brace yourself for the upcoming days and get the legs moving. We explored around the refugio and loved our campsite. The views of the surrounding terrain hint at what's to come.
We left Refugio Chileno at 3:00am with headlamps. The sunrise mission to Mirador Las Torres is the centrepiece of the entire trek. The final half mile has almost 40% gradient — a serious butt-kicker. The reward at the top is the three iconic granite towers reflected in the turquoise glacial lake.
We returned to the refugio for breakfast, then continued toward Refugio Los Cuernos. This leg passes beautiful aqua-blue lakes and reveals the stunning Cuernos del Paine peaks — jagged and imposing — for the first time.
The longest and most challenging day. After breakfast at Los Cuernos, we hiked to Campamento Italiano — the middle arm of the W Trek — where wooden racks allow you to leave your main pack and continue with only a daypack to Mirador Británico. The views of the French Valley with its hanging glaciers and granite walls are extraordinary.
After the French Valley detour, we picked up our bags at Italiano and pushed on to Refugio Paine Grande. Fatigue from previous days was very much present by this point — the final stretch was purely mental. Paine Grande sits on the beautiful shores of Lago Pehoe with stunning views of the Horns.
The hike from Paine Grande to Refugio Grey offers unbeatable views — Lake Grey on one side and Patagonian mountains on the other. As you get closer, Glacier Grey begins to reveal itself in all its enormity.
Upon arriving at Refugio Grey, we walked to the shores of Lago Grey and were immediately treated to jaw-dropping views of icebergs floating in the lake, reflecting the last light from the setting sun. In front of us rose the imposing wall of Glacier Grey — a sight that's genuinely difficult to describe.
- Boat ride on Lago Grey among floating icebergs
- Ice hiking on Glacier Grey
- Kayaking in Lago Grey near the glacier
- Hike to the hanging suspension bridges at Gardner Pass (extends into the O Circuit)
Around 11am we were on the return hike to Refugio Paine Grande, arriving in time to pack and catch the last catamaran out. As exhausted as our bodies were, stepping onto that catamaran with 5 days of extraordinary wilderness behind us was a deeply satisfying feeling.
General Tips
- Always wear layers — Patagonia is notoriously windy and experiences all four seasons in a single day, even in summer
- Carry Chilean Pesos — useful for booking ferries, catamarans, and shopping locally
- Bring a daypack — many sections can be hiked without your full pack (leave it at the refugio)
- Carry reusable water bottles — potable water is available at all refugios and from flowing streams
- Book all accommodation and park entrance tickets months in advance — everything sells out
- Trekking poles are very helpful, especially for the ascent to Mirador Las Torres
Read our complete guide to 2 weeks in Argentina & Chile.